Scotland, Pt. 8

Wow – our last full day in Scotland. I was determined to make it count. Fueled by Mark & Janet’s delicious complimentary breakfast, we headed back to Lake Menteith to see Inchmahome Priory. We watched people fly-fish from small boats until the ferry arrived. Soon we were speeding across the lake to the island.

The ruins were spectacular, with incredible columns and arches that were surprisingly complete, and featured admirable workmanship. In addition to the aged priory, there were many trees on the island that ranged from 200 to 600 years old. The men who stayed here often had seven services in one day. To unwind, they might gather around the social fire. The priory had hosted several big Scottish names like Robert the Bruce and Mary Queen of Scots. The serene and quiet atmosphere was perfect for wandering around the grounds and surrounding forest. What a great morning!

Eventually we called for the ferry – which involved simply flipping a sign over on the pier – and drove into Queen Elizabeth Forest Park (part of the larger Trossachs & Loch Lomond National Park). The drive was downright pleasant, with sun and fluffy white clouds. Would the weather continue to cooperate for our planned hike up Ben A’An? We’d find out soon enough. We were in such high spirits, we would’ve had fun no matter what.

Indeed, as we negotiated the steep trail, the sky darkened and we got caught in a spontaneous downpour. We didn’t let it bother us, enjoying countless small waterfalls alongside the trail, and the sound of raindrops pattering in the woods. Eventually, we emerged from the forest and could see our goal – the craggy peak of Ben A’an – emerging from the mist.

“Bet it clears in a half hour,” Jason predicted. I wasn’t sure he was right about that. It was still coming down and we were totally soaked. Despite not having a raincoat, he seemed totally unbothered by the rain. Instead, he just broke out his umbrella, and I couldn’t help but laugh, watching as it bobbed around in the greenery, as if it would help at all against the downpour, and as if it mattered, since he was already saturated.

It turned out Jason was right. The rain slackened and the clouds began to break. When I caught my first glimpse of the landscape, with Loch Katrine far below, my heart soared. I waved excitedly to your Jason, calling him over to admire the view with me. We were the only ones there for a while. I wedged myself between some rocks and took it all in – the hills receding into the distance, enormous white clouds, the buzzing of bees visiting wildflowers bent by the breeze. I couldn’t imagine a more fitting place for our final stop.

As we prepared to descend, more storm clouds rolled in over the loch, creating quite a dramatic scene. It rained the entire way down the mountain, but by the time we reached the trailhead, it was perfectly clear and sunny again. I marveled at our good timing, luck, or whatever it was.

Feeling accomplished, we returned to the hostel, exchanged our muddy jeans for clean ones, and hit the Lade Inn for a final dinner in Scotland. Next door at the Ale Shop, we bought a few Scottish-brewed beers to enjoy at the hostel – I chose Three Sisters Ale, named after the iconic Scottish mountains near Glencoe. I admit that I chose it partly for the novelty. The back label included a recommendation from the brewer to drink Three Sisters with haggis.

Afterward, we spent some time meandering down a few less traveled streets in Callander. One of these ran alongside a meadow, from which a horse came to the fence to say hello. Once back at the hostel, we packed up and went to the common area to relax. Jason flipped through the collection of movies and asked if Blade Runner was good. “You’ve never seen Blade Runner?!” I said. And so we spent the evening enjoying our beers, watching Harrison Ford chase down replicants.

The next day, we drove to the airport and returned the rental car. I waited with Jason at his gate until it was time for him to go back to Germany. We thanked each other for an awesome trip and for being easy travel partners. I so admired his courage for living and working abroad. After all, we were both just a couple of regular guys from a small town in Michigan. On the trip to Scotland, he made things seem so easy and fun, that it really inspired me to travel more.

Ever since I’d started digging into my family genealogy, I’d wanted to see the place from which my ancestors came. I felt very fortunate that I was able to take the trip – my first outside of the U.S. and Canada – and that Jason was able to join me.